Saka, makoroko adzoka, zvikasadaro haazombofi akapera. Kugara mumusasa here? Kunonyaradza here? Kuyeuka zvinhu zvekare? Hatina chokwadi. Asi isu vekuScienceline tinoda maCrocs edu, kungave ari mapeya epingi anopenya akapfekwa naLyric Aquino pamberi pekonzati yaHarry Styles, kana mapeya ebhuruu akapfekwa naDelaney Dryfuss kuresitorendi yefashoni muMartha's Vineyard. Mamwe eatinofarira iye zvino ari kushanda pamwe chete neCrocs dzakadai seBad Bunny, mafirimu eCars ne7-Eleven.
Mabhuroko anozivikanwa ave aripo kwemakore makumi maviri, asi panguva iyoyo hatina kumbofunga nezvezvaakagadzirwa nazvo. Kana mubvunzo uyu wauya mupfungwa dzedu, hatigoni kuubvisa. Saka, ngatinyatsoongorora kemikari yeCrocs tofunga kuti tingachinja sei maumbirwo ayo kuti tideredze njodzi yekambani iyi kune zvakatipoteredza.
Zvakaoma kuwana mhinduro yakatwasuka paindaneti. Mune zvimwe zvinyorwa zvinonzi rabha, mune zvimwe - furo kana resin. Vazhinji vanoti hazvisi zvepurasitiki.
Padanho rekutanga, maCrocs anogadzirwa nezvinhu zveCroslite zvine patent. Chera zvakadzama uye uchaona kuti Croslite inonyanya kuve polyethylene vinyl acetate (PEVA). Chinhu ichi, dzimwe nguva chinongonzi EVA, ndecheboka remakemikari anonzi mapolymers - mamorekuru makuru anoumbwa nemamorekuru madiki, anodzokororwa akabatana pamwe chete. Kuumbwa kwayo kwemakemikari kunobva mumafuta efossil.
"Makudo chaiwo ipurasitiki. Hapana mubvunzo nezvazvo," anodaro Michael Hickner, nyanzvi yesainzi yezvinhu paPennsylvania State University inyanzvi mukugadzira mapolymers.
Akatsanangura kuti purasitiki imhando yakakura, asi inowanzoreva chero polymer yakagadzirwa nevanhu. Tinowanzoiona sechinhu chakapfava, chinopfava chinoshandiswa kugadzira midziyo yekutorera zvinhu uye mabhodhoro emvura anoraswa. Asi styrofoam ipurasitikiwo. Ndizvo zvakafanana nenylon nepolyester muzvipfeko zvako.
Zvisinei, hazvina kuipa kutsanangura maCrocs sefuro, resin kana rabha - zvese zviri pamusoro apa. Mapoka aya akafara uye haana kunyatsojeka, rimwe nerimwe richitaura nezvekwakabva kemikari uye hunhu hwemuviri hweCrocs.
Crocs haisiriyo yega kambani yeshangu inoshandisa PEVA kuti iwane shangu dzinonyaradza. Kusvika pakatanga PEVA kuma70s ekupedzisira uye kuma80s ekutanga, maererano naHickner, shangu dzaive dzakasimba uye dzisingakanganwiri. "Hadzina kana buffer," akadaro. "Zvaive zvakaoma kwazvo." Asi anoti polymer itsva yakareruka inochinjika zvakakwana kuti ive yakakurumbira muindasitiri yeshangu. Makumi emakore gare gare, hunyanzvi hwaCrocs hwaive hwekugadzira shangu dzese kubva muchinhu ichi.
“Ini ndinofunga kuti mashiripiti chaiwo eCrocs ihunyanzvi,” anodaro Hickner. Zvinosuwisa kuti Crocs haiburitse zvakawanda nezvekuti Crocs dzinogadzirwa sei, asi magwaro ekambani nemavhidhiyo anoratidza kuti vanoshandisa nzira yakajairika inonzi injection molding, maitiro anobatsira kugadzira purasitiki nemidziyo yeLego. Kufanana nepfuti inopisa ine glue, muchina wekugadzira injection unosveta purasitiki yakaoma, woinyungudutsa, woiburitsa nepaipi iri kune rimwe divi. Plastiki yakanyungudutswa inopinda muforoma, kwainotonhorera yotora chimiro chitsva.
Guruu rinopisa pacharo rinowanzogadzirwawo nePVA. Asi kusiyana neguruu rinopisa, Croslite polymer inenge yakazadzwa negasi kuti igadzire chimiro chefuro. Mugumisiro wacho ibhutsu inofema, yakasununguka, isingapindi mvura inotsigira uye inochengetedza pasi petsoka.
Maitiro acho achachinja zvishoma munguva pfupi iri kutevera kuti shangu dzepurasitiki dzive dzakachengeteka kune zvakatipoteredza. Mumushumo wavo wekupedzisira wekuchengetedza nharaunda, Crocs vakataura kuti peya imwe yemachira avo ekare anoburitsa 2.56 kg yeCO2 mumhepo. Kambani iyi yakazivisa gore rapfuura kuti inoronga kuderedza huwandu ihwohwo nehafu panosvika gore ra2030, muchikamu nekushandisa mapurasitiki akagadzirwa nezvinhu zvinogona kushandiswazve pane mafuta epasi.
Zvinhu zvitsva izvi zvakagadzirwa nemhuka, zvinonzi Ecolibrium, zvakatanga kugadzirwa neDow Chemical uye zvichagadzirwa kubva "kune miriwo yakaita semafuta matema asina kucheneswa (CTO), kwete kubva kuzvinhu zvezvisaririra," mutauriri weDow akadaro mu email. Mafuta matema, ayo anowanikwa kubva mukugadzirwa kwehuni dzemapepa, anowana zita rawo kubva pashoko rechiSweden rekuti pine. Kambani iyi iri kuongororawo dzimwe nzira dzekushandisa mumiti, mutauriri wavo akadaro.
"Chero sarudzo ye bio-based inofungwa neDow inofanira kutorwa sechigadzirwa chakaraswa kana sechigadzirwa chega chega chekugadzirwa," vakanyora kudaro.
Crocs vakaramba kutsanangura kana vakatanga kushandisa Ecolibrium munzvimbo dzavo. Takabvunzawo Crocs kuti iperesentii yepurasitiki yavo ichabva kuzvinhu zvinogona kushandiswazve pakupera kwemakore gumi, pakutanga vachifunga kuti vaironga kuchinja kwakazara. Mutauriri akapindura ndokutsanangura kuti: "Sechikamu chechinangwa chedu chekuzadzisa zero yekubudisa utsi panosvika 2030, chinangwa chedu ndechekuderedza utsi hunobva muzvigadzirwa zvishoma ne50% panosvika 2030."
Kana Crocs parizvino isina kuronga kuchinjira zvizere kune bioplastics, izvi zvinogona kunge zvichikonzerwa nemitengo mishoma uye kuwanikwa kwadzo. Parizvino, bioplastics dzakasiyana-siyana dzinodhura uye hadzina kunyatsoshanda kugadzira kupfuura mapurasitiki echinyakare. Itsva uye dzinokwikwidzana nemaitiro echinyakare "agara aripo," anodaro Jan-Georg Rosenboom, mainjiniya wemakemikari kuMIT. Asi kana indasitiri ye bioplastics ikaramba ichikura, Rosenboom inotarisira kuti mitengo ichadzikira uye kuwanikwa kwayo kuchawedzera nekuda kwekuwedzera kwehuwandu hwekugadzirwa, matekinoroji matsva kana mitemo.
Crocs inorongawo kushandisa mamwe matekinoroji kuderedza kuburitswa kwecarbon, zvakaita sekushandura kushandisa simba rinogona kushandiswazve, asi maererano nemushumo wavo wegore ra2021, shanduko iyi haizoitiki kusvika hafu yechipiri yezana rino remakore. Kusvika panguva iyoyo, kuderedzwa kukuru kwemitengo kuchabva pakubvisa mamwe mapurasitiki akagadzirwa nemafuta ekare neanogona kushandiswazve.
Zvisinei, pane dambudziko rimwe chete rinooneka iro purasitiki iyi yakagadzirwa nezvinhu zvipenyu isingagone kugadzirisa: kwainoenda shangu kana dzasakara. Magorira anozivikanwa kuti anogara kwenguva refu. Kune rumwe rutivi, izvi zvakasiyana chaizvo nematambudziko efashoni ari kutambura neindasitiri iyi. Asi kune rumwe rutivi, shangu dzinoguma dzave mumarara, uye kuora kwezvipenyu hazvirevi kuti kuora kwezvipenyu.
“Unoziva, maCroc haaparare, izvo zvinokonzera matambudziko ekuchengetedza nharaunda,” akadaro Hickner. Anotaura kuti panogona kunge paine maCroc akawanda muPacific Garbage Patch.
Hickner akatsanangura kuti kunyange hazvo PEVA zhinji ichigona kudzokororwa nemakemikari, hazvigone kuitwa pamwe chete nekudzokororwa kwezvimwe zvinhu zvemumba. MaCrocs angatofanira kugadzira nzira yavo yekudzokorodza, vachidzokorodza shangu dzekare kuti vagadzire itsva.
"Dai Crocs vaida kuita mutsauko, vangadai vaine chirongwa chekudzokorodza zvinhu," akadaro Kimberly Guthrie, anodzidzisa kutengeserana uye kuchengetedza mafashoni paVirginia Commonwealth University.
Crocs yakabatana nekambani inotengesa zvinhu zvakachipa online thredUP kuti iwane pekugara patsva pakutengesa zvinhu zvakachipa mwaka wadarika. Crocs iri kukurudzira kubatana uku sechikamu chekuzvipira kwayo kuderedza huwandu hweshangu dzinozopedzisira dzave mumarara. Paunotumira mbatya neshangu dzakamboshandiswa kuchitoro chepamhepo chinotengeswa zvinhu zvakachipa, unogona kunyoresa kuCrocs Shopping Points.
ThredUP haina kupindura chikumbiro chekuda kuziva kuti vangani vakasvika kuzvitoro zvemidziyo yakachipa kana kuti vakatengeswa kumawardrobe matsva. Zvisinei, vamwe vanhu vanopa shangu dzavo dzekare. Kutsvaga thredUP kunowana mhando dzakasiyana dzeshangu dzeCrocs dzine mavara akasiyana-siyana uye saizi dzakasiyana-siyana.
Crocs inotiwo vakachengetedza shangu dzinopfuura 250,000 kubva munzvimbo yekurasira marara mumakore mashanu apfuura kuburikidza nechirongwa chavo chekupa zvipo. Zvisinei, nhamba iyi ndiyo chikonzero nei kambani ichipa shangu dzisina kutengeswa pachinzvimbo chekudzirasa, uye chirongwa ichi chinopa shangu kune avo vanozvida. Zvisinei, pasinei nekuzvipira kweCrocs kuchengetedza nharaunda, kambani inoramba ichikurudzira nhengo dzayo dzeCrocs Club kuti dzidzoke kuzotenga shangu dzepurasitiki dzinogara kwenguva refu.
Saka izvi zvinotisiira chii? Zvakaoma kutaura. Tinonzwa zviri nani zvishoma nezvekurasikirwa nekushanda pamwe chete kwedu naBad Bunny kwatakanga tarasikirwa nako, asi kwete kwenguva refu.
Allison Parshall mutori wenhau wesainzi ane chido chekunyora nyaya dzemultimedia. Anonyorawo kuQuanta Magazine, Scientific American neInverse.
Delaney Dryfuss parizvino ndiye Mupepeti Mukuru weScienceline uye muongorori weInside Climate News.
Ndinoda magarwe ako, asi mamwe anodhura zvakanyanya kutenga. Ndapota nditumireiwo peya yako itsva, saizi 5. Ndave nemakore akawanda ndichipfeka peya yangu yekupedzisira. Chengetedza nharaunda uye ugare zvakanaka.
Ndinovimba kuti dzave dzakanaka sezvadziri ikozvino nekuti kupfava kwadzo ndiko chete kwandinogona kupfeka kubasa nekuda kwearthritis yangu uye chero zvimwe zvinetso zvinoitika kutsoka dzangu. Ndakaedza kakawanda kurapa marwadzo etsoka nezvimwewo. Orthotic insoles… hadzishande asi ndini handigoni kupfeka shangu kana kuti handina kuwana chakakodzera kwandiri uye pese pandinofamba dzinodzvanya bhora retsoka yangu, uye ndinobatwa nemagetsi kana chimwe chinhu chakafanana neizvozvo. Zvinoita sekunge pane chimwe chinhu chirimo chisingafanirwe kunge chiripo… ndinongoda kuti dzive dzakapfava sedzimwe kuitira kuti ndirambe ndichishanda
Mushure mekuverenga izvi, ndakafunga kuti Crocs vaizokanganisa chigadzirwa chavo. Idzi ndidzo shangu dzakanakisa dziri pamusika parizvino panyaya yekunyaradza nekutsigira. Sei uchibiridzira kubudirira uye uchiparadza chinhu chakanaka? Ndiri kunetseka nezvemacrocs izvozvi, sekuziva kwangu handichazokwanisi kuatenga zvakare.
Ndakanga ndiri pamhenderekedzo yegungwa muOregon ndichidhonza ngwena mbiri dzegungwa. Zviri pachena kuti dzakagara mumvura kwenguva yakareba, sezvo dzakanga dzakafukidzwa nezvisikwa zvemugungwa uye dzakanga dzisingatyoki zvachose. Kare, ndaigona kudzika kumahombekombe ndowana magirazi egungwa, asi ikozvino ndinongowana zvidimbu zvepurasitiki - zvikuru nezvidiki. Iri idambudziko guru.
Ndinoda kuziva kuti ndiani mugadziri mukuru weshangu idzi, tinogadzira zvishongo zveshangu, tinotengesa mapeya anopfuura chiuru pamwedzi, hatina zvakawanda pari zvino.
Zvakaoma kuziva kana paine mashoko aya ari echokwadi kana kuti ari kungotsoropodza marobhoti. Kwandiri, kugara zvakanaka kuCrocs kwakafanana neboka remabhiriyoni ari kusaina Giving Pledge vachipa hafu yepfuma yavo. Hapana kana mumwe wavo ari kuita izvi, asi vakagamuchirwa zvakanyanya nekuda kwezvavakataura. Crocs Inc. yakashuma mari yakawanikwa pagore inosvika $3.6 bhiriyoni, yakakwira ne54% kubva muna 2021. Kana vachida zvechokwadi kuti makambani atore mutoro wekukosha kweshangu dzavo, mari yacho yatovepo yekudyara kusingaperi. Sezvo chizvarwa chevechidiki chichigamuchira shangu idzi nekugara zvakanaka, Crocs inogona kuva ngano yeMBA kana vakateerera mafambiro evatengi ari kuchinja. Asi kuita matanho makuru iwayo kunogona kuoma zvikuru, sezvo kuisa mari mumatanho ekugadzirisa anodhura kunopesana zvakanyanya nekudzoka kwevane masheya/vanoisa mari munguva pfupi.
Chirongwa cheSainzi, Hutano, uye Zvemamiriro Ekunze cheArthur L. Carter Journalism Institute paYunivhesiti yeNew York. Garrett Gardner ndiye dingindira.